Aggies in Egypt

As one of the seven wonders of the world, the great pyramids of Egypt have fascinated scientists and tourists alike for many generations. The pyramids, along with the many other cultural treasures Egypt has to offer, are one of Utah State University anthropology professor David Lancy's favorite areas in the world.

In fact, Lancy likes it so much that he has been leading tours to Egypt and the Middle East for Utah State students, faculty and alumni every other year since 1996.

"We have a great time and we are learning something," said Lancy. "Students participating in the tour are earning a global education. They are discovering. They are learning to understand and appreciate foreign cultures."

Lancy says that study abroad promotes creative thinking, exploration, diversity and understanding, and that is why he founded the Global Scholars Endowment. Lancy started the endowment with a personal contribution because he has seen many highly qualified and eager students denied the opportunity of studying abroad. The recipients from the endowment are top scholars at Utah State who have the commitment, but not the funds, to make the most of their education.

"As a professor of anthropology and leader of many student tours, I can create excitement in the classroom, but with students in the field, I can create life-long, passionate learners," said Lancy.

Lancy's program attracts students, faculty and alumni, and he would like to reach out to more alumni by working with the alumni association on future trips.

To learn more about Lancy's travel program or the Global Scholars Endowment contact him at (435) 797-1322.

Lancy and Utah State Vice Provost Joyce Kinkead took a group to visit Egypt over the holidays. Kinkead finished this essay on the plane ride home from Egypt.

Aggies in Egypt by Joyce Kinkead

The fascination with Ancient Egypt seems universal. It may be fueled during elementary school by reading about King Tutankhamun's treasures in a weekly reader or by visiting a touring exhibition on Ramses II. That was certainly true for Brent Groth, Jr., a senior majoring in Anthropology, who got to realize his childhood dream of visiting Egypt over the holidays on an "Aggies in Egypt" tour led by David F. Lancy, Professor of Anthropology. "I thought I had some sense of the size and splendor of Egypt; however, it was much greater than I ever imagined," according to Groth, who saw many of those splendors through the lens of a camera. "Lying on my back in Tuthmosis III's banquet hall at Karnak Temple in Luxor or squeezing in a tomb to get a shot of the Book of the Dead literally focused my attention in places where the magnitude of the monuments can be overwhelming."

The itinerary for the travel-study tour was notable for its inclusion of sites off the beaten path, including the Bahariya Oasis, dubbed the "Valley of the Golden Mummies" for the cache of mummies found there in 1999. Tanis, the city Indiana Jones sought in Raiders of the Lost Ark, was also on the schedule, featuring ruins of obelisks and statues that prompted the travelers to read Shelley's famous poem Oxymandias "round the remains of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare, the lone and level sands stretch far away." Lancy noted that access to many sites was eased by having permission from Dr. Zahi Hawass, Director of the Supreme Council of Antiquities. "Without Dr. Hawass' signature, we would not have had the personalized attention at sites that are normally off limits. One of the curators gave us a personal tour of nobles' tombs that are closed to the general public." Lancy also gave credit to Peace Tourism, the company responsible for land arrangements. "They are extremely proactive about making sure we got good treatment and access."

The 20 travelers made their way through Middle Egypt, a region off limits for the past decade due to internal strife. "To be the first U.S. group in the region is remarkable," noted Lancy. "The local economy has suffered from the lack of tourism, but there are remarkable sites in this area. The high point of the tour for me was finally seeing the temple at Abydos, a remarkably intact structure with vivid wall paintings and reliefs." Lancy continued, "The Egyptian government is very sensitive about the safety of its visitors, and we had the highest levels of security with our group 24 hours a day while in this region." Why travel to Middle Egypt? "To see the progression of pyramid architecture, where the ancient Egyptians tried out various models before hitting on the classic shape we know from Giza, it's really necessary to see the Bent Pyramid, the Step Pyramid, and Maidum."

For Heidi Maddern, a sophomore majoring in history, it was this insider's view that made the trip memorable. "We always see the exterior shots of the pyramids, but I was inside duck-walking down the 190 foot long shaft of the Red Pyramid to look at the corbelled ceiling. And being one of the 150 allowed daily to visit Nefertari's tomb was awesome, especially since the tomb is closing for an indefinite period of time. It truly is the most beautiful tomb in the Valley of the Queens."

Elizabeth Lord, an art major, also stressed the beauty of Egypt's art and architecture. "I made lots of sketches from the sites we visited. The skill of the artists thousands of years ago is nothing short of astounding. Their influence continues to be felt in contemporary art," Lancy agreed. "The students on this trip really got an eye-opening experience. I'm proud of the committed and studious way they approached the experience, reading history and literature about Egypt before and during the trip, taking copious notes, and engaging in debates about those issues that still mystify us."

USU Alum Elizabeth Schow ('99) found that in some respects not much has changed from 3100 B.C. to A.D. 2003. "The farming scenes depicted on the walls of the monuments---we saw these same scenes not carved in stones but with real people, farmers still using donkeys, camels, carts." Yes, there is high tech in Egypt, but there are also farmers using water wheels and hand tools to plant, care for, and harvest their crops.

These daily scenes as well as the stunning monuments provided fodder for the photographers on the trip. Describing himself as a "serious amateur," Loganite James Clow recorded hundreds of images, as did his sister Sandra McDonough. For this brother and sister team, they plan the next trip when they have developed all of the pictures from the last one. Newton residents Robert and Doris Bartsch also toted a number of cameras so they could have just the right one for the photograph, whether that was a felucca sailing on the Nile or fireworks being shot on New Year's Eve.

For everyone on the tour, the Egyptian people were memorable for their friendliness and hospitality. "At Tell Basta, the site of the temple dedicated to the worship of Bastet, cat goddess, we were almost swamped by children on a school tour," Elizabeth Schow noted. "They practiced their English on us, and we got a group photo to send back to their school." Carlene McLaughlin, a liberal arts and sciences major, and Justin Carter, a double major in English and philosophy, spent some time in an Egyptian home in Fayum. "This family just took us strangers in and shared afternoon tea and sweets. It really is the people. They are remarkable for their warmth and friendliness. Seeing the daily life, real people, how they live, these are the most important memories I'll take home with me," according to McLaughlin.

Maxine Blotter, Aggie Alum ('50) from Cincinnati, could not pinpoint one particular aspect as being more memorable. "It's all meaningful, from the grand scale of the pyramids to the medieval mosques. I'm delighted that USU and its faculty are involved in these travel-study excursions. I can say from experience that the chance to learn never really ends." The tour ended in Cairo where the Egyptian Museum was celebrating its centennial with a special exhibition on "Hidden Treasures," artifacts found in the museum's basement. "The paint was still fresh in the new exhibition rooms in the basement," Lancy reported. "This was a terrific time to be in Egypt."

Lancy concluded, "Although the group members ranged in age from 15 to 75, there was a common passion for new experiences. This is my fourth trip to Egypt, each one organized by Spiekerman Travel, and I've learned so much on each journey that contributes to my teaching." Lancy is Utah's 2001 Professor of the Year, and his selection by the Carnegie/CASE Foundation was based in part on his work with students in developing an educational CD, Whose Mummy Is It?